Aquatic plants
Some aquatic plants are cultivated alone, and some are cultivated together with ginseng fish. No matter which one they are, We all hope that we can make aquatic plants grow better through correct methods, and then there are certain differences between the cultivation of aquatic plants and the cultivation of guinea pigs. Fertilization, care, and water quality are all matters that we need to pay attention to.
1. Basic knowledge of aquatic plants
During the growth of aquatic plants, they mainly absorb carbon dioxide, potassium, magnesium ions and calcium substances from the water. The culture medium contains nitrogen, phosphorus, sulfur and other elements such as iron, manganese, copper, zinc, etc. Maintaining an appropriate content of phosphate and iron substances in the culture medium can suppress the massive growth of algae. This is a secret to having beautiful aquatic plants without being disturbed by a large amount of algae. In fact, most aquatic plants will grow better when the culture medium is rich in nutrients.
In order for iron to be well absorbed in the cultivation base, you need to use clay, soil or organic addition materials to the cultivation base containing iron elements, such as peat (grass mud pills). This organic material provides nutrients to anaerobic bacteria, which convert insoluble iron compounds (ferric iron) into soluble ferrous iron. They also release a natural chelating chemical called humic acid. Acid can stabilize Fe++ so that it can be absorbed by plants. This kind of humic acid can also help buffer the pH of the water very well, so that the aquarium has a good and stable pH value. It disrupts a lot of attempts to test things for CO2 and hardness. This method shows how you can achieve the appropriate CO2 and hardness without relying on a complete set of testing tools.
2. Planting base (substrate)
Base layer: some iron-rich clay, micro-powdered iron or soil. This way it can be mixed with sand. Micronized iron accounting for 2% is already abundant, and iron feed containing iron sulfate is not practical. Ceramic clay is a bit difficult to mix with other materials unless they are crushed and soaked in water for a week. It is more convenient to use base soil. You can often add a little frit trace elements, about 25 small particles per square meter of the bottom of the box (5cm thick). You need to refer to the dosage on the package, and be sure to pay attention, because it is easy to cause excessive amounts. The weight of ten small particles is approximately 0.12 grams. That is about 1/70 teaspoon.
Middle layer: 2.5cm thick mixed with 4 parts garden soil and 1 part loose moss peat. Since soil is twenty times heavier than peat moss, that is 1.25% sedimentation ratio, and mix in a handful of finely powdered iron fat to ensure that the soil is filled with iron. You might as well mix in sand.
Top layer: aquarium sand layer about three centimeters thick. Put a large plate or flat plastic plate on the bottom of the aquarium, and then slowly pour water in, allowing the water to slowly flow from the plate into the tank. If you don't pay attention to the water contamination, it is best to use a siphon to suck up the water in the tank. Then pour water carefully again.
When the water is 2 to 4cm deep, you can plant aquatic plants more densely. Use fast-growing aquatic plants at the beginning. It is recommended to use either fluorescent lamps or metal halide lamps with 2 to 3 watts per lamp. Light intensity adjustment for 5 liters of water volume. A successful soil substrate requires good light and plenty of aquatic plants.
After initial installation, 25% of the water in the aquarium can be replaced. Initially, the peat will release a large amount of humic acid, causing the water to turn yellow. Activated carbon filters will reduce the yellow color of the water and help remove excess iron. When changing the water frequently, change the water more frequently to treat fat. In the past, peat will release a small amount of humic acid, and the frequency of water changes needs to be reduced. Generally speaking, NPK fat clay balls can be added once or twice a year, and the nutrients are still sufficient.
Experimental data on nitrates and phosphates are easy to find, but none are basic. If you use a lot of organic fertilizer or a lot of soil, you may need to pay attention to the nitrate, phosphate or ammonia content, and focus on ammonia in the first few months, because ammonia is often produced by large amounts of soil. . Over time, the aquarium substrate will become easier to manage, especially once you clear away excess algae and aquatic plants. A high-quality iron ion testing tool may be very effective. Peat and iron-containing substrates can produce a large amount of soluble iron, which will cause algae to spread and cause disasters. This is why regular water changes are required, which is a good plan. .
3. Fat ingredients
Use a container to hold three cups of boiling water, add and dissolve:
1/4 cup Potassium Sulfate
1/4 cup of Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate)
1/8 cup of potassium nitrate
Pour the mixture into a 750ml bottle medium and keep in a cool place. If it may crystallize in the refrigerator, you may want to add half a teaspoon of nitric acid to the solution. In the early stages, you may want to add 1 teaspoon/5 gallons of water every now and then. After each water change, add 1 teaspoon/5 gallons of water. In the early stages, add 2 teaspoons of calcium carbonate per ten gallons of water. If your water hardness exceeds 4GH, skip this step without intervention.
Another thing that needs to be compensated is the light. Whether the aquatic plants grow vigorously is also related to sufficient light. In fact, this is just like letting the aquatic plants receive a certain amount of sunlight management. Suitable light can make aquatic plants grow faster and better.
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